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| Vol. 26, No. 1 Spring, 2008 |
Tucson Gem Show '08
by Robert Genis
The Tucson Gem Shows are considered the ultimate gem world extravaganza. Once a
year almost everyone in the colored gemstone business makes the annual trek.
Many dealers came to this year’s gem shows with fear in their hearts. Surely,
the dreaded “R” word or recession was going to hit the gem market. Surprisingly,
the recession seems to have hit the lower end commercial goods, but fine top end
stones are as rare and in demand as ever.
Pricing
As a general rule, market observers and appraisers come to Tucson to look for
pricing trends of colored gemstones. This year was especially difficult because
prices were all over the board. Many dealers in booths right next to each other
had widely different prices on similar material. This might be explained by the
declining dollar. It is possible the dealers with new stock have been buying
recently with devalued dollars, while the dealers with older stock bought a
while ago. Others speculate the Tucson Gem Shows have really become retail shows
that sell to private clients and the dealers better ask high prices. Some
dealers said the prices of unheated Burma ruby and sapphire, unenhanced spinel
and not-treated Colombian emeralds were up 25% from last year. We are simply
raising our Retail Gemstone Price Trends 10% to conservatively reflect the
market changes. Tanzanite and tsavorite was also up approximately 10% price.
Hot New Stone
The hot new stone everyone was talking about was the Tanzania spinel. It was
discovered in 2003, but large qualities have recently been discovered.
Supposedly, a large 52 kilo crystal and many other large crystals were recently
found. This has allowed the cutting of many stones in the 20-40 carat range.
These stones are reportedly selling for over $10,000 per carat. The problem with
these stones is they are not red. They are beautiful and bright but they are
pinkish-red. How can these stones sell for the same or more than Burma goods yet
not be red? We believe it is smarter to buy the red Burma's and watch this
market from the sidelines. As a general rule new finds of stones come out at a
certain price level and increase. Perhaps this stone is an exception.
Burma Goods
H.R. 3890 or the Burma Democracy Promotion Act of 2007 is the second attempt to
ban the importation of Burmese gemstones into the US. It passed the House and
the Senate and will proceed to a conference committee to work out the
differences before it goes to President Bush and becomes law. The new law does
not effect any Burmese gemstones that are presently in the country. We expected
to see less Burma goods at the gem shows. We saw primarily Mong Hsu heated and
fracture-filled rubies although unheated Mogok gemstones were rare. Once the ban
becomes permanent, Burma stones will become even rarer.
Bottom Line
Gemstones are rising because of escalating oil, precious metal, diamond markets
and the declining dollar. We seem to be in an inflationary recession. When
inflation becomes a worry, smart collectors/investors diversify into hard
assets. Although gemstones are not as liquid as some investments, they provide
the ultimate portable store of wealth. if you are financially secure, placing a
small portion of your wealth into gemstones makes sense.
Ebay Diamond Scams
Editor: This is an informative article written by Robert James, President,
International School of Gemology. It outlines how Ebay scamsters make money and
get high positive feedback by selling grossly embellished diamonds. It is
reprinted with permission.
Ebay and the FTC!
by Robert James
March 2008
How the bad guys are getting away with it.
I want to say that there are a lot of really good sellers on eBay. Honest people
doing honest business. But today, I want to give you some insider information
regarding how so many of those sellers using deceptive trade practices can
continue in business. I have learned this information from years of trying to do
consumer awareness regarding some of these eBay seller practices as reported by
consumers. This is case history, not conjecture.
We need to first remember that in spite of eBay’s claim that they are just a
venue and not responsible for the deceptive trade practices going on, eBay has a
collateral interest in the auctions. eBay makes a percentage off of every sale
(not to mention the additional 3% they make from payments via PayPal). So it is
in eBay’s interest to make as many sales as possible, regardless of what it take
to do so. Which not only makes eBay a partner in a deceptive sale, it makes eBay
an accomplice in a deceptive sale by their refusal to take action. That is
perhaps the biggest deception going on at eBay, their claim that they are not
responsible for the actions of the sellers. In fact, eBay is the partner of
these sellers.
Bad Guys with 100% Positive Feedback Ratings
I have always found it interesting how many eBay sellers using really deceptive
selling practices always seem to boast about their 100% Positive eBay rating, or
are even able to maintain a 99% positive rating. Well, it’s easier than many
people may realize.
Take, for example, the seller we looked at yesterday, Number1Solutions. This is
the seller who had the 2.00 Carat Canary Yellow Diamond that turned out to be a
cubic zirconia. This seller has a 99.5% positive feedback in spite of offering
auction after auction of these deceptively titled auctions. There are two ways
to maintain a high positive rating when you are doing stuff like this.
The first is simply to pad your auctions feedback with your own shill bidder ID.
It is quite easy for a person to open multiple eBay accounts. Buy your own
goods, give yourself a high rating, and then you build a huge positive number
within a short period of time. You can also work in cahoots with other buyers of
your ilk and trade off giving each other big positive feedback numbers.
The second is a bit more sinister. And this is how it often works. When a
customer realizes that they have been ripped off and demands a refund, the
seller agrees to provide a refund but only after the customer posts up a
positive feedback for their auction. The buyer is usually so frustrated and so
concerned about getting the refund that they will do just about anything to get
their money back. So they post up a positive feedback for the seller in spite of
the situation, and then the seller issues the refund and receives yet another
positive feedback number to their rating.
This has been reported on multiple occasions on the eBay Consumer Forums and
there is little anyone can do since you only get one opportunity to leave a
feedback on a purchase. And the other issue is that new customers not familiar
with seller will look at the 100% positive feedback rating and think that this
must be a good seller. Not knowing that the positive feedback is due to
coercion.
Making Money Without Really Selling Anything
There is an easy way to make huge profits on eBay that many of the really sneaky
sellers use. No one talks about it much because it sounds too logical. And quite
honestly it’s legal. Here is how it all works:
First, they get a few rings that are obviously junk. Then put them up at auction
claiming they are really excellent quality pieces, require a shipping charge
that is in excess of the actual cost to ship, then sell them at a really low
price for the kind of ring listed. And as part of their auction in the fine
print, they offer a full refund if the customer is not satisfied minus a 10%
restocking fee. The seller knows in advance that the item has been
misrepresented. And they know the buyer is going to be unhappy with the purchase
and demand a refund. But here is where the whole scheme pays off…..
When the buyer calls demanding a refund, the seller tells the buyer this: "I
will take the ring back but there is a 10% restocking fee, I do not refund the
shipping fee, and you must leave a positive feedback for me before I will do
anything for you since I am taking good care of you."
Can you see where this is all headed now?
Consider if I offered for sale a Certified 1.50 carat D-VS1 loose round diamond
with an appraisal for $16,000.00, and I offered it at a Buy It Now price of
$2,000.00. That would be quite a deal. But when I sent you the diamond you were
horrified to find that you got a 1.02 carat L/I2 round diamond. You would become
very worried about getting your money back and contact me.
I would tell you that I am so sorry you are not satisfied. And I will give you
the refund exactly as promised because I want you to be happy with my company.
All you need do is post up a positive feedback for me since I am taking such
good care of you. Once done I will issue your refund minus the $200.00
restocking fee, and I would also have the $10.00 left over on the excess
shipping charges. Leaving $210.00 in my pocket after all is said and done.
My cost for the whole affair: $15.00.
Time involved: 1 day to post the auction. 5 days for the auction to run. 3 days
for the customer to get the ring and start demanding a refund. 3 days to do the
dance on the refund. Total time 12 days.
Now, if I have 10 doggy looking diamond rings. Post them up in these kinds of
auctions 2 times a month each, and each time I make $210.00 in restocking fees
and excess shipping fees, my monthly gross income without ever having to
actually sell any of my doggy diamond rings is $4,200.00. And I never actually
sold anything.
That is one reason we continue to see such wonderful diamonds apparently being
sold for such low prices on eBay. The whole point is not to sell diamonds; the
whole point is to collect restock fees.
You get to keep the diamond ring. You get to keep the restock fee. You get to
keep the shipping fee. And you get to add yet another Positive Feedback to your
rating with every sale.
And with millions and millions of new visitors on eBay reading your positive
feedback, and the fact that eBay makes money every time you make a sale so they
are not going to do anything about it, it’s really a pretty good living if you
can sleep at night by doing it.
There are a lot of variations on the above. But this is just a look at some of
the antics going on with some of the bad eBay sellers who are giving the good
sellers a bad name.
Notable Quotes
Mineweb
by David Brough
March 12, 2008
“A 10-carat "D" flawless diamond would now sell wholesale for around $155,000 a
carat, up from about $110,000 six months ago.”
Martin Rapaport
Themomentblogs
New York Times
March 18, 2008
“I couldn’t recommend a better way to spend an afternoon than looking at
gemstones. It’s akin to staring straight into the eyes of God or the universes.”
Anna Sheffield
Financial Post
Karen Burshtein
March 15, 2008
"Colored, or fancy diamonds as they are properly called, are indeed the hot
thing in gemstones." Duncan Parker, vice-president at Harold Weinstein Ltd. Gem
Lab
Collector News
Purple Diamonds Discovered
In March, Dianor Resources discovered a sample of rare purple diamonds at its
Ekomiak V property in the James Bay region of Quebec, Canada. The new diamond
discovery is the largest to date in Quebec. The diamond-bearing Ekomiak
Conglomerate extends for four kilometers and up to 500 meters in width with
individual outcrops measuring 500 meters by 400 meters in size. Some reports
claim they found 9 and others 16 micro purple diamonds. They found 856 diamonds
from 26 surface rock samples over 2.7 billion years old. The largest diamond was
a colorless measuring 1.06 mm x 0.98 mm x 0.56 mm. The largest purple found is
of 335 x 379 x 225 microns. The company announced in February plans to raise $10
million in a private placement to cover expenses in hopes of finding some larger
purples. Of course, purple is one of the rarest and most desirable colored
diamond colors. A new supply would be nirvana for collectors.
More Kashmir Sapphire?
Jammu and Kashmir Minerals Limited earned over US$3.2 million from the two-day
auction of Kashmir sapphire. The auction was organized for the sale of rough
sapphire corundum extracted from the sapphire mines in Paddar area of Kishtwar
district. Approximately 72 bidders came from India and Bangkok. They plan to
make it a regular feature and the next auction is likely to take place in six
months. Around 17 kilos of rough sapphire corundum was mined out between 1998
and 2004. Since these stones were actively mined between 1880 to 1930, these
sapphires have become legendary. The extraction of the rare sapphire from the
Paddar mines was stopped after militancy erupted in the state in the 1980s. Lack
of mining expertise also hampered work. The main reason for the Jammu and
Kashmir Minerals to auction its precious wealth was generating funds to pay
salaries to its employees who have not been paid for several months. Now the
government wants do a thorough assessment of the sapphire mines to exploit the
reserve. All things being equal, top gem Kashmir sapphires sell for double the
price of Burma sapphire and four times the price of similar quality gems from
Sri Lanka or Madagascar.
In The News
Burmese Gem Sanctions: Doing Good or Just Feeling Good?
by Gary Horvitz
Mizzima News
March 24, 2008
The place of the Burmese gem trade in the overall economy of Burma is an issue
under little dispute. Burma is acknowledged to have huge stocks of jade and
colored gemstones which are in great demand in China, Hong Kong and other parts
of Asia. In turn, Asian traders supply other parts of the world, responding to
demand in Europe and the United States. But the vast majority of jade is sold in
Asia to Asians. Rubies are a distant second, most of which are sold in the
United States and European Union.
The Burmese military government maintains control of much of the extraction,
either through state operations or through concessions to private contractors
who pay the government royalties. Private traders are authorized by the
government to sell gems as long as they pay ridiculously high taxes on their
earnings.
A percentage of the jade makes its way to Hong Kong and China on an ad hoc
basis, while most of the rubies and other gemstones mined in the northern states
find their way to Thailand where they are refined before sale. The majority of
the gem stock is sold directly to large trading concerns at state-sponsored
auctions.
Since the primary buyers of Burmese jade are Chinese, a Western boycott may have
little effect on the overall trading volume. While some jade undoubtedly finds
its way to retailers around the world, a few large and well known chains in the
jewelry business – Cartier, Tiffany's & Bulgari, as well as the entire European
Union – have agreed to boycott Burmese gems. Cartier even does random laboratory
testing to verify the origin of its gems and to document its compliance with the
embargo.
It is not entirely clear whether the recent delay in government auctions and the
reduced volume of gems traded was a reflection of external market factors or
whether it was due to internal production delays. There may indeed be turmoil
and production problems due to internal politics, but it's very difficult to
determine the effect of any such problems. Nevertheless, private gem concessions
must continue production in order to generate the income necessary to service
their debt and maintain their capital. It is difficult to predict whether
reduced demand for rubies in the West will reduce prices or whether internal
production problems will reduce inventories of jade in the East and cause prices
to rise.
Jewelers of America, a voluntary retail association that supports a ban on
Burmese rubies, advised its more than 11,000 members in October of 2007 "to
source their gemstones in a manner that respects human rights." But the
association has no enforcement arm and can apply no penalties to any retailer
wishing to sell rubies.
While the Association advises its members to ask for documentation of the source
of the gems they purchase, there is no American law preventing them from
purchasing gems of any source. In fact, since most rubies undergo significant
transformative processing in Thailand before export and sale, it becomes almost
impossible to identify the origin of any particular stone except by detailed
laboratory analysis.
Therefore, even though the 2003 Burmese Freedom and Democracy Act signed into
law by President Bush prohibited direct importation of Burmese gems, pressure
from key members of the jewelry industry convinced the United States Customs
service to issue a ruling a year later that made an exception for items of
Burmese origin that had been "substantially transformed" in a third country.
"The U.S. embargo has almost nothing to do with the Myanmar side of smuggling.
Gems are smuggled by individual miners, private companies that partner with the
government, army officials, drug dealers, and rebels.
Gem smuggling from Myanmar to Thailand is even more dangerous than from
Afghanistan to Pakistan, but it is also one of the only ways many Myanmar
citizens have to break out of extreme poverty. The two primary starting points
for colored stones are Mogok and Mong Hsu. "Mules" move a few gems at a time by
hiding them on themselves. They then take a two-day trip by foot, motor scooter,
or horse to deliver the gems to a dealer in a Thai border town. During the trip,
the "mule" — usually a woman — will have to cross several official border
crossings, where lackadaisical government officials will conduct a cursory
inspection. The smuggler pays a bribe to the official and is waved through;
whether an individual is carrying contraband or not is irrelevant.
Once in Thailand, Myanmar smugglers, Thai brokers, and international buyers meet
to sell gems. Most gems then go to Bangkok, where they are cut, treated, and
sold to international purchasers.
Although Myanmar gems are embargoed by the United States, the reality is that it
is impossible to spot a Myanmar gem or for customs agents to take any action to
stem the flow. Even in Thai border areas, Myanmar stones are mingled with gems
from Africa, India, Cambodia, Australia, Thailand, and elsewhere. There is no
certificate of origin at this stage. Once the stones have moved to Bangkok, they
are further mingled. This is where the certificate of origin or authenticity
often appears. By that time, only a practiced gemologist can offer an opinion on
where the gemstone originated."
If the above reflects reality, it is impossible for a United States Customs
agent to determine the origin of a gem that is declared, let alone stop the flow
of gems that are not declared. This effectively means that any seller could
easily disguise the origin of any gem with virtual impunity.
Since the raw stones go through several hands before becoming suitable for
export to the United States or the European Union, it is false to say that
sanctions will only hurt independent artisans. As long as there is a demand for
the stone and as long as the origin of the stones is disguised in the present
manner, there will always be a demand. Only the most scrupulous of buyers,
willing to meticulously track the origin of these stones could possibly
differentiate a stock that might be free of the taint of human rights abuse.
Such an effort would require dealing with traders willing to comply with a
standard of documentation that is very unlikely to be met.
Peggy Jo Donahue, from Jewelers of America, believes there is strong support for
changing the 2003 Burmese Freedom and Democracy Act to close the loophole
established by the Customs Service. This is what House Resolution 3890, passed
by the House Foreign Policy Committee, chaired by the late Tom Lantos, was
supposed to do.
She claims not to know of any opposition strong enough to stall this bill. But
the fact is that there was opposition to the 2003 Act that was strong enough to
influence the Customs Service and clarify the loophole. I doubt the Customs
Service acted on its own in making its ruling.
If the Burmese Democracy Promotion Act of 2007 which recently passed the United
States Senate were to become law, it could very well have the effect of limiting
the flow of rubies into the United States because the Customs Service is well
aware that they all undergo processing before export, therefore all rubies would
become suspect. However, it would be unfair to embargo all rubies regardless of
origin, since many may come from areas other than Burma. The logical consequence
of closing the current loophole would be a demand for and scrutiny of more
specific documentation of gemstone origin, which could easily become a serious
headache for that department. In fact, it's not out of the realm of possibility
that the Customs Service itself might lobby against passage of this legislation.
If higher scrutiny was to become the case, then the large traders who normally
buy at Burmese government auctions might become reluctant to purchase stones
they know they will have difficulty selling. Considering the creative
lawlessness for which the Burmese junta is known, I can only speculate that a
more aggressive worldwide embargo on Burmese rubies would only spur the army to
transition from being the auctioneer to becoming the smuggler, leading to the
widespread false documentation of origin.
Different versions of the Burmese Democracy Promotion Act of 2007 have been
passed by the House and Senate. The Senate version blocks rubies and timber. The
House version also terminates tax deductions for Chevron investments in Burma.
So these differences must be resolved before the legislation can be signed by
Bush. It's possible that no substantial action will occur before the
presidential election in November, which would mean that this legislation may
not be signed before a new Congress is seated in 2009.
Jewelers of America is not the only trade association that has rendered an
opinion on the issue. The American Gem Trade Association, with over 1,000
members in the United States and Canada, issued a press release on November 6,
2007, supporting a stronger embargo of "materials originating in Burma."
The International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), with 500 members in 46
countries worldwide, qualified its statement of support for the embargo saying
it "exhorts its members to desist buying Burmese gemstones from any government
sources and marketing organizations," while simultaneously strongly recommending
"that all parties cautiously consider the negative impact and collateral damage
that indiscriminate measures could inflict upon independent and poor populations
engaged in mining, processing and trading activities in Myanmar."
Attempting to target specific entities that might be deliberately circumventing
any sanctions is problematic, since obtaining evidence of such behavior would be
next to impossible for someone outside the industry. Targeting small concerns
would be a waste of time, while making inquiries with large jewelry chains is
likely to be met by smokescreens and secrecy. Meanwhile, the Burmese government
has recently made public comments to the effect that the European Union embargo
is having no effect.
What, then, is to be done? Practically speaking, a sanction against Burmese gems
may only have a negligible or at best a mixed effect. Its main value may be
political in that it remains an appealing and effective organizing issue to
maintain an awareness of Burma in the public consciousness. Yet no true
political leverage exists until a sanction becomes law, which has not yet
occurred. So, for now, we must await the resolution of legal motions before
determining the path forward.
The Kashmir Legend
AGL President C.R. “Cap” Beesley trekked to the mountainous region of Kashmir.
By Amber Michelle
Rapaport
December 1, 2007
American Gemological Laboratories President C.R. “Cap” Beesley trekked to the
mountainous region of Kashmir, where the sapphire mines for this coveted gem are
guarded by rough terrain and political tension.
It was a gemologist’s dream come true for C.R. “Cap” Beesley, president of the
American Gem Laboratories (AGL), when he got the opportunity to go to the
Kashmir sapphire mines — located in the northernmost frontier of India — to
visit, research and conduct exploration for 12 days. Even though the National
Mineral and Development Corporation of India (NMDC) and the Jammu and Kashmir
(J&K) provincial government, who jointly administer the mining area, granted
permission for the visit, entry into the area was still difficult.
“Ed Cleveland of Kashmir Blue works in the area and is actively involved in
humanitarian work in Kashmir. We combined our mutual interests and pulled off
the trip by going as a humanitarian mission. We delivered medical supplies to
all the isolated villages along the trail,” explains Beesley, who has traveled
the world as a former gem sciences consultant to the United Nations minerals
branch. This trip, however, was somewhat covert as there is danger in the area
from militant terrorists, a substantial military presence and marauders looking
for hostages. For safety purposes, Beesley and his team always referred to each
other by colors, rather than names, to avoid a hostage situation and they never
spent more than one night in the same place.
Between the treacherous terrain and the hostile environment, few have ventured
into this area. Beesley notes that he is one of three gemologists from a
gemological laboratory to ever travel to the Kashmir sapphire mines and the only
one to do so in the past 20 years. This inaccessibility of the mines contributes
to the rarity of Kashmir sapphires — and has enhanced their desirability. In the
auction market, the very name can cause a flurry of bidding. To dealers, the
word Kashmir represents the ultimate measure of sapphire quality and for
retailers, it is the prize that is always just out of reach.
“Personally, since I had previously worked the 14,000-foot ruby site at
Nangimali on the Azad Kashmir, Pakistan side of the line of control and I had
climbed to Kaltaro, the emerald deposit, at 16,000 feet, I wanted to complete
the triumvirate of precious stones and visit the highest sapphire mine at 14,500
feet,” says Beesley.
“Professionally, I also wanted to resolve several issues relative to the past,
present and future of the Kashmir gem deposit,” says Beesley. “First, my intent
was to resolve the critical issue of what we have called ‘New Kashmir.’ Was the
current material we are seeing in the marketplace from a secondary deposit in
Kashmir, or was it actually a different geochemical strain coming from the
original historic site? Typically, the new material visually resembles Sri
Lankan or Ceylonese material, but internally deviates dramatically from its
classic Kashmir counterpart.” He says he also was in Kashmir to photograph and
video-document the region, as well as explore for new gem deposits. His company,
AGL, has clients interested in investing in the area who wanted a first-hand
assessment of the current situation.
In 1947, India regained independence from British colonial rule and Pakistan
broke off from India and became an independent nation. Currently, Pakistan
controls about one-third of Kashmir and India the other two-thirds. There is a
massive military presence that patrols the borders between the countries and
there is often active fighting as both sides try to gain sole ownership of the
entire territory.
The route Beasley’s expedition took to the Kashmir sapphire mines passed through
three key villages — Kishtawar, Atoli and Sumjam — all historically important
markers on the sapphire-trading route. The end of the road is the village of
Gulabgarh, a predominantly Hindu area.
“The entire trek required walking over 100 kilometers [60 miles]. Along the way,
I lost 15 pounds and developed a renewed appreciation for every drop of fresh
water and scrap of toilet paper,” Beesley says in recalling the trip. “At times,
the mountainous paths were so difficult to negotiate that your life was
literally in the hands of your mountain guide. The ultimate ascent to the mines
required an overnight stay in an isolated cattle outpost at 12,500 feet. The
next morning, we continued the climb to the rim of the amphitheater-like valley
that rises to over 17,000 feet and overlooks the Hagshu glacier vallery and the
600-year-old Sumjam village. We hired local smugglers to help us navigate the
last part of the journey to the mine.”
From the final vantage point at the rim of the valley, there was a clear view of
the rock formations that account for the uniqueness of sapphire from Kashmir.
The mine is protected by armed guards who have no qualms about shooting first
and asking questions later. Samples of “New Kashmir Sapphire” were collected on
this trip, so that its characteristics could be studied and documented. The new
gems coming from the mines have different features than Classic Kashmir
Sapphire. At this point, Beesley has determined that the material AGL has been
calling “New Kashmir Sapphire” is from the same historic site, but is a
lower-quality material. He explains that it is important to be able to verify
the origins of sapphire because it can make a 300 percent, 400 percent or even
greater difference in the price of the gem if it is determined to be from
Kashmir rather than Burma, Sri Lanka or Madagascar.
There is not much Kashmir sapphire coming onto the market these days. The
treacherous trip to the mines and 30 feet of winter snow are part of the reason.
The NMDC and J&K have developed plans to expand the mine and sell sapphires on a
commercial level, but the plans so far have not been implemented. Most recovery
efforts are based on extracting sapphire from decomposing feldspar, a mineral
that hosts sapphires, pursuing shallow tunnels and working the surrounding
debris fields. Many of the sapphires currently coming out of Kashmir are
smuggled out by a network of smugglers who sell the stones in Delhi and Jaipur.
Locals would like to see the mines increase production legitimately in a way
that would support the area’s economy.
Kashmir sapphires are so coveted that in April, a 22-carat gem sold at
Christie’s New York for a record-breaking $134,000 per carat. “Kashmir
represents the epitome of amazing sapphires,” concludes Beesley. “Their intense
blue color that holds up in changing lighting environments and their
characteristic velvety, light-scattering internal texture contribute to their
uniqueness and desirability in the world of the connoisseur.”
Retail Gemstone Price Trends: 1975-2007

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For comments, questions or price quotes e-mail NGC, Attn: R. Genis